A gemstone’s story begins before it’s even in the collection or on display at the jewelry store. It begins underground, where the conditions of the minerals’ creation, heat, pressure, and geological activity, turn them into a gem that has taken thousands, or even millions, of years to form.
These conditions vary, and thus so do the types of gemstones that are found across the globe. Some form in cooling magma deep underground, some in mineral-laden water as it travels along rock fractures, and some in the intense geologic events that create mountains or volcanoes. It is this natural phenomenon, which dictates the rarity and supply of each gemstone in the market, that draws the attention of geologists, lapidaries, jewelers, and collectors.
Once the mineral is found, the process begins to extract the gemstone. The difficulty and geography of the mining method depend on what mineral is being mined. Some gems are mined from within the earth in tunnels; other gems are obtained from water or from loose deposits that have fallen to the earth due to natural processes such as erosion.
When the rough is removed, it is graded by the gemologist or lapidary. The stone’s characteristics are identified and evaluated. The color, clarity, size, and presence of inclusions may vary in value, as a rough stone that appears to lack characteristics upon extraction may prove to be exceptionally beautiful after cutting and polishing.
Cutting is the process of deciding exactly what shape and style the gem will be cut to. Some cutters will prioritize brilliance or beauty and will cut more from the rough stone, sacrificing some material to achieve a gem that has the highest possible visual performance. Other cutting decisions may sacrifice a bit of color or clarity to produce a higher yield, meaning the resulting gem is smaller in overall size.
Prior to entering the marketplace, some stones are further evaluated. A professional gemologist may evaluate the physical and optical characteristics, identifying any treatments and documenting other aspects that may affect value. This information is critical to making informed purchasing decisions.
Demand for specific types of gemstones fluctuates according to fashion and market conditions. Some gems, like tanzanite, were once rare and highly valued, but have grown more common as deposits are discovered. Other gems, like ruby or diamond, have always been in high demand. New gemstones often gain popularity, but some remain in demand as they become more readily identifiable.
Today’s consumers are more interested in knowing the origin of their gemstones than ever before. They want to ensure their gemstones are sustainably and responsibly sourced, without harming the environment or taking advantage of local labor. As a result, more supply chain transparency is provided to consumers, and gemology programs focus more heavily on identifying and sourcing techniques.
A thorough knowledge of all the gemstones’ formation, mining, cutting, grading and selling will be invaluable to gemology students as they seek to gain employment in today’s global marketplace. All gemstones are products of a journey they took from the earth to the marketplace and each journey leaves a record in the gem, which the student can learn to read.
Ultimately, a gem is much more than a pretty piece of stone that is put in jewelry or a gemstone collection. It is part of a process that takes millions of years to occur, and human ingenuity and expertise. A gem is a treasure in both the physical and historical senses of the word.